(Part 2 of the Bhutan Trek Series)
The next morning we left the comfort of Hotel Olathang behind and set out for the real adventure.
For the next week we would be trekking deep into the Himalayas toward Mount Chomolhari, one of Bhutan’s most sacred peaks and the centerpiece of the Chomolhari Trek.
Our destination that first day was Thang Thanka, a campsite high in the Paro Valley at roughly 11,700 feet.
This would be our first real taste of trekking in Bhutan.
Driving to the Start of the Trek
After breakfast we loaded into a van for the roughly two-hour drive west along the Paro Valley to the end of the road.
The scenery quickly transitioned from farmland and villages to increasingly rugged terrain. Snow-dusted mountains rose above the valley and the Paro River flowed beside the road.
The last stretch of road became rough and narrow before finally ending at the small settlement of Shana, the traditional starting point for the Chomolhari Trek.
Here we organized our packs while our porters loaded the larger duffel bags onto pack animals.
Then we crossed a small wooden bridge.
The trek had officially begun.
A Wet Start
Within minutes of starting the trek, the rain began.
At first it was light enough to ignore, but it quickly intensified as we climbed deeper into the valley.
Unfortunately, most of our heavy rain gear had been packed into our duffel bags—which were now somewhere ahead of us on the backs of pack animals.
I had a Marmot rain jacket, but its waterproofing had long since worn out. Before long I was nearly as wet underneath it as I would have been without it.
Leslie from Boston had it even worse—she had no rain gear at all, just a down jacket. We handed her our emergency poncho, which helped somewhat.
To make matters worse, I had forgotten my pack cover at home, so I was trying to shield my backpack with my rain jacket while wearing it.
It was not an elegant solution.
Rain Turns to Snow
As the rain continued, temperatures began to drop.
High on the slopes above us, the forests slowly turned white as fresh snow accumulated. Eventually the rain itself began turning into snow.
By the time we reached a small roadside store where we stopped for lunch, it was snowing steadily and we were soaked through.
Despite the miserable conditions, the snowfall transformed the landscape. The valley grew quieter and more dramatic as the mountains slowly disappeared into the storm.
We crowded into the small shop while the cooks prepared a hot lunch.
The warmth and shelter felt incredible.
The Long Walk to Thang Thanka
After lunch we continued trekking through the falling snow.
Fortunately, the trail itself wasn’t especially steep. For most of the day we followed the Paro River as it wound deeper into the valley.
There were a few short climbs, but nothing too demanding.
The real challenge was simply staying warm and dry.
A Warm Shelter on the Trail
Along the trail we stopped at a makeshift shelter belonging to a local herder.
Inside it was surprisingly warm.
The herder was there with his young son, and our guide Tandin knew him well, so they chatted while we warmed ourselves for a few minutes.
Meanwhile Alli was taking the climb slowly while adjusting to the altitude.
Denise and I hadn’t taken any altitude medication and so far were feeling pretty good.
Arriving at Camp
We finally reached our first campsite at Thang Thanka around 5 PM.
Snow was still falling and the entire valley had turned into a winter scene.
Our tents had already been set up when we arrived. We quickly claimed one and changed into the driest clothes we could find.
Despite that, the cold dampness of the day seemed to linger deep in our bones.
Nearby was a small stone building where we gathered for dinner.
It wasn’t heated, but at least it sheltered us from the snow and wind.
Our guides had a fire going in the kitchen area where they were cooking and drying gloves and boots.
Before heading to bed they handed out hot water bottles, which we tucked into our jackets and sleeping bags in an attempt to warm up.
A Long Cold Night
Exhausted from the long day, we crawled into our sleeping bags early.
Outside the snow continued falling heavily.
My sleeping bag is rated for around 25°F, which is normally plenty warm, but the damp cold made it difficult to warm up.
At one point Denise woke up shivering uncontrollably.
I pulled my down jackets over her and held her close while debating whether I should wake our guides for help.
Eventually the shivering stopped and she drifted back to sleep.
It was a long night, but by morning we had made it through.
Waking Up in a Winter Wonderland
When we unzipped the tent the next morning, the view outside was incredible.
The storm had passed overnight, leaving behind fresh snow covering the entire valley.
The early morning sun began lighting the surrounding mountains and the scene looked like something straight out of a postcard.
Within minutes I had my camera out capturing the light reflecting off the snow-covered peaks.
After the miserable conditions of the previous day, the view felt like a reward.
Heading Toward Jomolhari Base Camp
After breakfast we packed up camp and continued trekking deeper into the valley toward Jomolhari Base Camp, where we would spend the next two nights acclimatizing.
The weather had cleared into a brilliant blue sky.
The trail gradually climbed through increasingly open terrain as the forests thinned and the surrounding peaks grew taller.
By midday clouds began building again and snow squalls occasionally swept across the valley.
Then we caught our first glimpse of Mount Jomolhari itself.
Even partially hidden in clouds, it was one of the most impressive mountains we had ever seen.
Soon we would be camping at its base.
